Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Oscar de la Renta 1932-2014

Oscar de la Renta passed away yesterday at his home in Kent, Connecticut.  He was 82 years old.

I think there is no doubt that Mr. de la Renta's legacy will be his gorgeous and lush cocktail and evening dresses.  They were not complicated or intellectually challenging but designed to make a woman look and feel her best.  And what woman/girl does not feel lovely in silk faille and gowns richly embellished with beading, feathers... They were always feminine and flattering and perhaps safe - which is certainly one of the reasons he dressed four first ladies - and just this month, Mrs. Obama wore Oscar for the first time.

This is one of my favorite photos from Vogue that is really a summation of Oscar de la Renta's world: it was photographed at his home in Kent in his famously beautiful garden, with his step-daughter Eliza Reed Bolen and two other young society women, Marina Rust and Aerin Lauder.  Mikhail Baryshnikov dives into the pool.  The ladies are in gowns and while Mr de la Renta may have dressed their mothers, he stayed relevant for their daughter and granddaughters too. 


My daughter the morning of  her 2013 4th grade graduation wearing Oscar de la Renta and a fascinator her Spansih teacher made.  I think Oscar would have approved...


xo, Juliana

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Fashion Will You Still Love Me, Will You Still Need Me When I'm 93? The Iris Apfel Edition

The models just keep getting younger and younger, oops I mean older and older, these days.  

The latest ad campaign for & Other Stories, the sister brand to H & M, features not Gisele Bundchen or Daria Werbowy but nonagenarian all around fabulous wears so many necklaces I am surprised she does not topple over because I think I would, Iris Apfel.


The photographs were taken in Iris Apfel's apartment by Ari Seth Cohen.

I love the beaded dress for 145 pounds (!) and look at Iris rocking the silver embossed knuckle rings!  And the gloves are pretty great too for 55 pounds.  & Other Stories will be opening in New York on Broadway.


xo and see you at & Other Stories, Juliana

Monday, October 6, 2014

John Galliano to Maison Martin Margiela!

According to WWD, John Galliano is headed to Maison Martin Margiela to become creative director.  It is both exciting and baffling at the same time.  On the surface it seems a bit of an odd fit for Galliano, a designer of lush, exotic dreams of fantasy fashion and the paired down all white house of Margiela.  But there is the couture - and January haute couture will be Galliano's debut for Margiela - the ready-to-wear and the secondary line MM6.  

And then again - maybe there are some similarities...

Martin Margiela Spring Summer 1990:


and John Galliano's first collection Les Incroyables in 1984:


Margiela's dressmaker form vest from Spring 1997 (and see here from RARE vintage):


and Galliano's undone Christian Dior dresses from the Fall 2005 couture collection:


I can hardly wait until January!

xo, Juliana

The Duchesses and Dior

"When Dior invented the New Look in 1947, my mother-in-law, 'Moucher' Devonshire and her friend, the Duchess of Rutland, who were in Paris for a less frivolous reason, wanted to see the collection.  They arrived at Avenue Montaigne in their tweed overcoats, which had done years of war service, and ditto shoes.  They weren't allowed in. Of humble nature, the two duchesses were disappointed but not at all surprised.   They sat on a bench eating their sandwiches to pass the time till they could decently return to the embassy where they were staying."
From Debo, the Duchess of Devonshire's book, Counting My Chickens

Sunday, October 5, 2014

Alexander McQueen: Deliverance Spring/Summer 2004

The Venue: Salle Wagram - a grand nineteenth -century dance hall.

The Collection: Deliverance, Spring/Summer 2004

The Designer: Alexander McQueen

The Inspiration: The 1969 Sydney Pollack film, They Shoot Horses Don't They? based on the book by Horace McCoy

'The marathon dance was held on the amusement park pier at the beach in an enormous old building that had once been a public dance hall.  It was built out over the ocean on pilings, and beneath our feet, beneath the floor, the ocean pounded day and night.  I could feel it surging through the balls of my feet, as if they had been stethoscopes.'
They Shoot Horses Don't They, Horace McCoy

The lights come up on seven couples, each in their own spotlight, dancing to big band music.  The women are in evening gowns, tattered patchworks of silks, sparkling crystals that catch the spotlight, and in feathers that fall to the floor.  


The lights fade and the music dies...

"McQueen's show, offering both emotion and fine clothes, was at the summit of the 2004 collections."
Suzy Menkes

I am so thrilled to be able to offer for sale a rare and exquisitely beautiful Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2004 Deliverance Collection silk dress identical to the one in the runway show.  Available for purchase here.


The dress has torn bits of silk chiffon squares sewn onto the bias of the skirt.  The patch work bodice has inserts of sheer nude silk chiffon and the shoulder straps are twisted.


For the right person, for the right wedding, this could make a dream wedding dress - or for rehearsal dinner dance...


xo, Juliana



Thursday, October 2, 2014

We'll Always Have Paris: Valentino Edition

Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccoli have really proved to be a perfect fit for the house of Valentino - they have taken Valentino forward but still reference the codes of the house.  I particulary loved the longer floaty bohemian pieces which are so right for summer...










xo, Juliana

Comme Des Garcons: Blood, Guts and Glory

Now, there is a title that I never thought I would write for a fashion post!  But Comme des Garcons Spring 2015 was all blood, guts and glory.  Rei Kawakubo sent out a bloodied almost disembowled collection - it was bizarre and oddly beautiful...




xo, Juliana

Tuesday, September 30, 2014

We'll Always Have Paris: Céline Edition

Phoebe Philo for Céline has once again designed my dream wardrobe.  One of the things that I also love about Céline, like Dries, is that it is actual wardrobe building - something from last season still looks so good this season, or will next...

There is also a nice element of fantasy.  This season the Céline woman is in the South of France with Jacques-Henri Lartigue.  I always wanted my Renee Perl/Lartigue/SouthofFrance moment didn't you?!










Looks like Phoebe wanted her Lartigue moment too...


And then was a very chic Courreges-esque moment too...



Céline Spring 2015.  Photos from Style.com

xo, Juliana

Monday, September 29, 2014

Saint Laurent, Hedi Slimane, Jodi Foster and Taxi Driver

Hedi Slimane was obviously channeling Jodi Foster's runaway/prostitute in Taxi Driver for Saint Laurent Spring 2015.  I am sure it was meant to cause quite le scandale... 



xo, Juliana

Gaby Aghion, Founder of Chloe, Dies at 93

Gaby Aghion, the founder of Chloé died this past Saturday at her home in Paris.  The Spring 2015 collection designed by Claire Waight Keller, was shown Sunday and was dedicated to its founder Gaby Aghion.

It is nice that Aghion lived to see her label celebrated in the exhibit, Chloé.  Attitudes, at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris in 2012.

"There is no characteristic Chloé woman.  She is neither blonde nor dark-haired.  But she is typically Parisian."
Gaby Aghion

Chloé at RARE vintage:

The iconic and much photographed 'Bugatti' dress in black silk embroidered with cabochons and silver tubular sequins...

1983 Chloé Bugatti dress available for purchase at RARE vintage.

Chloé Bugatti dress photographed by Albert Watson

and a silk gown with a bright yellow flyaway panel in the back...


Circa 1980 Chloe silk gown available for purchase at RARE vintage.
A similar dress is in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
xo, Juliana



We'll Always Have Paris: Street Style Edition

Looks like this Acne Studio wrap with its two large snaps and graphic black and white swirls is the street style accessory of the season...  




xo, Juliana

Sunday, September 28, 2014

We'll Always Have Paris: Dries van Noten Edition

For Spring 2015 Dries van Noten was inspired by John Everett Millais' painting, Ophelia.  



as always with Dries, there are lots of wonderful pieces here...










xo, Juliana

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